A Writer's Journey Through Vietnam
My adventures in Ho Chi Minh City, Da Nang, and Hanoi
It’s been 6+ months now since I left the US to travel through Southeast Asia.
I’ve spent time living in:
Vietnam
Thailand
Cambodia
The experience has been unforgettable and I’ve had lots of time to focus on my writing.
This newsletter was still in its beginning stages when my trip begin. We’ve since grown in subscribers and there’s an entire archive available to read. NORMIE is currently being serialized and I’m already working on my next story, which will arrive this fall.
Despite the fun, it’s time for me to return home. I’ll be flying back to the US as the end of this month.
I wanted to properly record my travels and share more details with you.
Let’s take a look at my time spent in Vietnam:
Behind-The-Scenes posts are available only to C.S.M. Fiction paid subscribers.
1. Ho Chi Minh City
I left the winter US in February 2024 and arrived in scorching hot Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam.
You might know the city by its former name, “Saigon.”
Shortly before my trip I watched Francis Ford Coppola’s 1979 film, “Apocalypse Now.”
I definitely had the opening scene with Martin Sheen in mind:
“I’m still only in Saigon… Every time I think I’m going to wake up back in the jungle…”
My arrival wasn’t as exciting as I previously envisioned. I’d booked my AirBnb while still back in the states and didn’t note the check-in time until shortly before my actual flight. I had HOURS to kill from when my plane arrived to when I could actually get into my accommodation. I wasn’t staying in a hotel either, so it wasn’t a situation where I could find the place and leave my bags for a bit before coming back to check-in. Not wanting to wander through a piping-hot new city with my luggage (a backpack and duffel), I decided to kill some time in the airport. I called my family to let them know I’d arrived and then slipped in and out of consciousness on an uncomfortable metal chair.
Finally it was time for me to leave and I quickly hit an ATM to get some cash. The currency of Vietnam is called dong. 1 dong = 0.000040 dollars, so I walked away with a stack of bills.
I called a Grab (SE Asian form of Uber) from outside the airport and waited patiently for my driver. He canceled. I tried again. Another cancelation. Frustrated, I made the fatal traveling error of carrying on a conversation with a hungry, loud airport taxi driver who spotted me as a weary tourist.
He told me that he would match the price I’d booked through Grab. I showed him the screen and clarified the amount. He agreed. I clarified again. He agreed.
I took a chance.
We walked through the airport parking lot to his car. Now this is where my first (and really only major) travel mistake took place. Once my luggage and I were safely in the vehicle, he flipped down the passenger sun visor, which was branded with a sticker: “airport fee.”
The driver then told me that I would have to pay an additional fee that amounted to more than half of the total price (something about a check-point outside the airport). I sensed a scam (not my first time traveling) and questioned the fee. Fatally, this happened while I made a paranoid attempt to make sure my new cash from the ATM had made it safely into my wallet during all the commotion of my exit. It was then that the driver grabbed my cash that had been hovering above my wallet. I quickly snatched it back.
At that point I canceled the deal and exited through the passenger door, grabbing my bags from the back. The man didn’t seem angry or try to explain himself. That made me even more confident the whole thing was a scam.
Anyways, I managed to book another Grab and there was no airport fee or check-point.
So I dodged a scam, but tragically, while in the safety of my legit ride I checked my wallet again. Cash was missing. Citing the currency conversion app on my phone, it amounted to about $50.
Not the best way to start a long trip abroad.
I can’t know for certain if the driver swept away some bills while he grabbed the stack from my hand or if I just misplace it. I’m not really one to lose things. A mystery for the ages.
After what felt like a week of traveling, I arrived at my AirBnb:
The place was great. Located near the heart of the city and more than enough space for a solo-traveler. The bed on a loft above the living room space.
Once I settled in, it was time to explore the city.
War Remnants Museum:
This museum was all about the war with the US. I arrived shortly after they opened and basically had the place to myself. The exhibits were absolutely brutal, especially those about the long-term effects of Agent Orange. It’s not a rare to still see the physical effects of the chemicals on random Vietnamese people walking through the streets.
Independence Palace:
This was the home and workplace of the president of the Republic of Vietnam (southern government). It was also the site of “The Fall of Saigon” in 1975.
Cu Chi Tunnels:
Ever since learning about the Vietnam War in history class, I’ve been fascinated by the tunnel systems used by the Vietcong. I booked a group tour to visit Cu Chi Tunnels just outside Ho Chi Minh City.
They actually gave you a chance to go into the tunnels:
And they showed some of the brutal traps used by the Vietcong:
2. Da Nang
After 1 week in Hanoi I took the overnight train north to Da Nang.
Da Nang is a beach city in Vietnam. It was surprisingly chilly compared to HCM City— most days were overcast.
I stayed in a $13 per night hotel with great rooftop views. The place was comfortable and the staff was excellent.
The best coffee I’ve ever had:
If you ever find yourself in Da Nang, you have to go to Login Coffee. Their coconut coffee is the best coffee I’ve ever had. It’s an iced latter with coconut milk, vanilla ice cream, and crispy coconut shavings on top. It was truly incredible. I spent many afternoons at Login sipping coffee and reading.
SunWorld (Ba Na Hills):
This was definitely the highlight of my time in Vietnam and honestly one of the most amazing things I’ve ever seen.
SunWorld is like an amusement park without roller coasters (some call it the “Disney” of Vietnam), but it has a twist. You can only get there by traveling on the longest cable car in the world.
Calling it an amusement park kind of undersells it. I was blown away by what they were able to build so high above the ground. The pictures and videos don’t really do it justice. There are multiple sections of SunWorld built across the hills. You travel from each site via cable car.
It was foggy for the majority of the day I went there. I walked through the clouds and incredible buildings would materialize before me.
Music playing in the background, witnessing a castle form from the mist was unforgettable:
Take a look at what else was there:
3. Hanoi
After 2 weeks in Da Nang, I took another overnight train to the capital of Vietnam, Hanoi. This train was much more comfortable than the one I’d taken out of HCM City.
My AirBnb was in the heart of the city:
To my surprise, Hanoi was very cold when I visited. You can see people in my photos wearing pants and coats, which is strange sight in Southeast Asia.
I ended up getting very sick while in Hanoi. Not exactly sure what I came down with but I had a fever for days and even had to wear a beanie hat to stay warm. A lot of my time was spent (unfortunately) sleeping in my AirBnb to try to get over whatever I had.
Despite this, I still did my best to see as much of the city as possible:
Dogs for sale? 👇
Obama Restaurant:
Back in 2016, President Obama famously visited Hanoi and filmed an episode of Anthony Bourdain’s travel show.
They ate at a local Vietnamese restaurant, which has since become a huge tourist attraction.
They even have a “Combo Obama” on their menu. That’s what I ordered.
The specific table Obama and Bourdain sat at has been encased in glass. You can see it in the background of my photo below.
Maybe it was because I was starting to get sick, but this was one of the worst meals I’ve ever had. It’s called “Bun Cha” and for some reason is served cold. I thought it might’ve just been that specific place that was bad, but I tried it again to the same result. I can’t trust Anthony Bourdain anymore 😂
Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum:
The body of Ho Chi Minh, the former leader of Vietnam, is housed in the mausoleum behind me in the photo below.
You’re actually allowed to go in and view the embalmed body. That’s what I did, waiting in line for what felt like forever. They were very strict about not taking photos, and I’m not sure I would have wanted to.
Hoa Lo Prison:
This is the prison where John McCain was held during the war.
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